Fashion 2040
As a creative in the field of fashion with a background in outdoor sports textiles, I find myself in an ambiguous situation, in which fashion is the spark and nature is the fuel. However, the fuel that was supposed to be for imagination has been burnt for other purposes, and it is now in an alarming state. I believe the fashion industry has a role to play in changing that and resolving other issues it provokes.
This manifesto is my vision of a future which sustains, regenerates and respects life. I would like to emphasize human rights, because, to me, how could we care for the environment if we are not even sensible to our peers?
It is a great task and maybe pretentious to dictate what we could do to change fashion (known to be the second most polluting industry). However, it is a useful step to set a vision and even if I find it difficult, it will not be the hardest thing to do to implement this radical change. I wish to be part of this change and work with companies that are willing to have better practices.
Social ethics
Fashion will not enslave and will be paying more than a living wage to their workers, offering stable work by stopping moving away to find lower wage prices. A more localized production allows the community to bond and gives a voice to those at the bottom of the production chain. Listening to their needs, providing training such as safety training, sustainability information, and health information (and support).
Subcontractors will be less common and should be strictly regulated and observed, as well as the company using their services. Brands will be fully responsible for building safety. In case an incident occurs they will have to compensate the victims and will be held responsible, they will also face restriction sanctions in their production since they are not able to produce at the rhythm they are implementing safely.
Education at all levels of the fashion supply chains is needed to improve safety. Knowledge share is a useful tool, for example, someone cutting fabric might know better how to reduce waste while cutting and should be encouraged to present solutions.
Transparency confers a tool for consumers and power toward the industry.
The information held on the transparency level should be similar to the meat industry, raw material type of agriculture and place of production. The information should say where treatments such as dyes, and coating were done, the same for the weaving and knitting stage, where it has been cut, where it has been assembled and finished/printed/embroidered and so on. In a perfect world, those steps should be done in a maximum of 2 to 3 locations within the same area. Or exported to be transformed in the country where it will be sold to consumers, this is done through platforms connecting all the stakeholders of the industry. It is reducing the kilometres, back and forth.
The systematic use of platforms connecting producers and designers, like Sourcing playgrounds help to select wisely producer in the country who produce raw material. This would lead to the empowerment of workers because they would interact directly with their customers and not with a lot of intermediates who pressure them or make a profit in between. Hecho por Nosotros also has a promising project on connecting producers, designers, and consumers. Each will access a certain type of information and a possibility of education throughout this platform, so empowering workers and consumers directly.
Degrowth
Regulation on production limitation or import is a radical choice which must happen, so we can have a slower fashion. Fashion will not aim to be hyper-productive, no more large scale, smaller brands and smaller batches. This kind of change will give back creativity and decolonize the industry.
Eduction of textile fibres and the existence of other materials than cotton and polyester to reduce the pressure on one type of production, opening the market to less known materials e.g., soy silk, bamboo, tencel and others. Imposing parameters to be allowed to grow of natural fibre to avoid depletion of the soil or water overconsumption.
Audit of control regularly and transparency for agriculture, any supply chain steps and reports available on a platform for the other implied in this supply chain. For example, if we audit an embroidery factory, the report will be available for all linked suppliers. The farmer growing the fibres and dyes factory, the one that did the thread, the assembly line, and anyone involved at any stage will have access to this information. It seems challenging to put in place and create a lot of information many will not read. Producers will be able to know who uses their product and how, opening a possible dialogue and opportunity to adapt.
End-of-life to recycle the fibre for other purposes.
For consumers, it is important to encourage a new behaviour, with second-hand clothes, and repairs, creating valuable relation to garments.
Nature regeneration
For better agricultural practices, the key is education to spread good practices. For example; a regenerative agriculture field does not use chemicals, it aims to strengthen the soil and the plants, no more single crop culture creating more diversity.
Drastically reducing (to zero) chemicals in the process of growing natural fibres means no water pollution, no algae proliferation, more insects, more birds, less health problems.
Animal welfare is often overlooked, and animal farming has a huge impact on the environment, however, implementing rules for animal welfare will reduce the multifactor impact of animal farming. Starting with no importation of leather from a country with poor legislation on animal welfare. Adding a brand responsibility for using raw materials that might not respond to the criteria.
Water pollution has many origins, including chemicals in the land field, fibre processing and textile finishing. Imposing a closed loop cycle when it is possible, for example, to treat regenerated fibres like bamboo and rayon. Strict maintenance of the infrastructure in this case to avoid any leaks. When water cannot be kept in a close loop, treatment before release and regular checking of waterways. Responsibility of the brands that use the factor will be engaged, they will be held responsible for any problem and should compensate and face restrictions if they cannot provide clean water.
Transparency is playing a role in the knowledge of the true cost and impact of the raw material.